Kunisaki mineiri

Kunisaki Peninsula – The Sacred Journey of Mineiri in Japan

During the Medieval period, the monks residing in Kunisaki Peninsula were filled with awe and reverence for the supernatural forces and ferocity of oni (demons), which they believed to be incarnations of deities.

In their pursuit of obtaining supernatural powers, these monks embarked on a pilgrimage through Daimasyo, the dwelling place of these oni.

This sacred journey, known as Mineiri, meaning “entering the mountains,” led them to construct temples in various locations across the Kunisaki Peninsula, which had long been feared as the den of oni. Gradually, more people started settling in the area, and villages began to form.

The tradition of Mineiri has endured in Kunisaki Peninsula for centuries. Pilgrims traverse mountain trails, chanting Buddhist mantras throughout their arduous journey.

Mineiri of Rokugo Manzan in Kunisaki Peninsula

Among the many Mineiri conducted in the Kunisaki Peninsula, the Mineiri of Rokugo Manzan holds a special place. This ancient pilgrimage is considered one of the oldest circular pilgrimages in Japan and boasts the largest participation.

Spanning over a total of six days and covering approximately 160 km, this journey has been undertaken since time immemorial. Although there are no clear historical records of the Mineiri prior to the Edo period (1603-1868), it is believed that ascetic practices were performed even before that time.

There are mentions of Mineiri in the Heian period (794-1185) as well. Ascetic monks who visited Rokugo Manzan’s temples and holy sites would perform incantations and prayers for the villagers, bringing blessings and happiness to each village.

The Mineiri tradition briefly ceased during the Meiji period (1868-1912) but was revived after the war, thanks to the unwavering faith of the ordinary people.

Minemichi in Rokugo Manzan in Kunisaki Peninsula

Rokugo Manzan

Minemichi is a trail that traverses the Kunisaki Peninsula, connecting the sacred sites of Rokugo Manzan. This path is used for the ascetic practice of Mineiri, which takes place once every ten years.

Starting from Usa Jingu Shrine, the ascetics embark on a challenging journey through the peaks of the Kunisaki Peninsula, navigating steep mountain paths and rocky terrain. Along the way, they visit temples and rock caverns of Rokugo Manzan, engaging in various ascetic practices. Many of these ascetic sites still bear the traces of the practices performed by the monks of Rokugo Manzan.

 

In 2019, the “Rokugo Manzan no Mineiri no Michi” (the Path of Mineiri in Rokugo Manzan), spanning the three cities of Usa, Bungotakada, and Kunisaki, was recognized by the Agency for Cultural Affairs as one of the top 100 historical paths.

This prestigious selection criterion only includes paths associated with religious beliefs that hold significance across multiple regions. As such, it is the first and only path in Kyushu to be designated as a “path of faith.”

Tennenji Temple Yaba in Kunisaki Peninsula

Tennenji Temple Yaba

Tennenji Temple Yaba is one of the most challenging sections along the Minemichi trail in Rokugo Manzan.

The mountain behind Tennenji Temple is home to ancient ruins and remnants, including caverns and kyozuka (mounds for Buddhist scriptures). As pilgrims navigate through rocky sections equipped with chains, they eventually reach the Mumyobashi Bridge, perched high in the mountains.

Legend has it that as long as one’s mind remains pure, they will not fall from this stone bridge.

How about experiencing a journey where you can immerse yourself in the true culture and traditions of the Japanese countryside?

Kunisaki Peninsula

Kunisaki Peninsula, the country of Gods, Buddhas, and Demons

The Japanese word “oni” is often translated as “demon” in English, a horrifying one related to Buddhism.
In Kunisaki, however, oni became popular among locals as they were considered to be incarnations of deities and Buddha. They are deeply connected with local communities and regarded as something akin to ancestral souls. People believed that oni brought them happiness and protected them from harm, and this is why locals admire and respect them.

The Kunisaki Penninsula is home to so much natural beauty and cultural heritage. Rich with history and folklore, it takes us on a journey to the ancient and medieval world. There are many lovingly preserved stone buildings and monuments in Kunisaki, and they provide the historic character and ambiance of the place.

The stony mountains of Kunisaki where oni lives
A long, long time ago, Kunisaki was a remote village far from the imperial capital of Japan, Kyo. Back then, the villagers believed and feared that terrifying oni lived beyond the jagged edge of the stony mountains and huge rocks. The giant cliffs, which were so steep that no one could hope to scale them, had deadly caves where they believed oni lurked.

How were these unusual-looking rock mountains formed?
The mountains of the Kunisaki Peninsula are remnants of volcanic activity that ended around 150 million years ago. Millions of years of erosion wore the rocks down to their current shape.

Oni appears in Shujo onie at temples on the Kunisaki Peninsula
Shujo onie is an annual festival that used to be celebrated at more than twenty temples in the Rokugo Manzan area from the seventeenth to the mid-nineteenth century, but it is now only held at three locations: Tennenji Temple on the west side of the peninsula, Jobutsuji Temple and Iwatoji Temple on the east side. Let’s have a look at what happens at Tennenji Temple on the night of the festival.
A New Year’s festival celebrated at the temple in which people pray for luck, happiness, protection from bad luck and driving out evil spirits. Oni performs a ritual and gives blessings to the audience.

Mineiri: a pilgrimage to the den of oni
In the Medieval period, monks in Kunisaki were so deeply in awe of supernatural forces and vehemence of oni that they considered them as incarnations of deities. To obtain supernatural powers, they head for the mountains to go on a pilgrimage through Daimasyo, where they believed oni lived. This pilgrimage is called Mineiri, which means “entering the mountains.” They began building temples here and there on the Kunisaki Peninsula, which had been feared as the den of oni and no one had dared to go near. Gradually more and more people came to settle in the area, and villages formed.
Mineiri is a long-lasting tradition in Kunisaki. Pilgrims walk mountain trails while chanting Buddhist mantras throughout their journey.

Mumyobashi Bridge in Tennenji Temple Yaba
It is said that, as long as your mind is pure, you won’t fall off from this stone bridge situated high up in the mountains.

The enduring quest of Mineiri, the power of people’s imagination that conceived oni, and their commitment to continue the tradition of Shujo onie: all these are evidence of our ancestors’ lives that has formed our historical and cultural identity.
Kunisaki’s rich and fascinating heritage can be seen not only in temples and statues but also in its nature and landscapes, which impact on and shape people’s lives and lifestyles.


*The first photo is provided by Rokugo Manzan Japan Heritage Promotion Council.

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